Thank you to everyone who joined Diarmuid and I on Sunday morning and submitted questions, plus big thanks to Diarmuid for his time! Hugely appreciated. You can listen here for all the answers plus there’s a detailed response from Diarmuid below.
Plants to bring colour in a semi shaded part of garden.
A semi-shaded spot can be one of the loveliest areas in a garden - cool, calm, and full of quiet colour. The key is choosing plants that thrive with a bit of protection from the sun. Here’s a list of plants that bring colour - through flowers, foliage, or both - in dappled or light shade:
Flowering Perennials & Bulbs
These give pops of colour across the seasons:
Astrantia – Starry flowers in white, pink, burgundy; long-lasting and elegant.
Japanese anemones (Anemone x hybrida) – Late summer colour in pink or white.
Aquilegia – Nodding, two-tone flowers in spring; self-seeds gently.
Pulmonaria – Speckled leaves and vibrant pink-blue flowers in early spring.
Geranium ‘Rozanne’ – One of the best for long flowering and purple-blue colour.
Dicentra spectabilis (bleeding heart) – Romantic, heart-shaped flowers in spring.
Corydalis – Bright blue or yellow flowers, thrives in cooler conditions.
Cyclamen coum or hederifolium – Small, vivid flowers in autumn or spring.
Shrubs with Colour or Interest
Hydrangea macrophylla – Soft pinks and blues; tolerates part shade.
Sarcococca – Evergreen with winter-scented white flowers and berries.
Fuchsia magellanica – Hardy, arching stems with pink-purple flowers.
Camellia – Glossy evergreen leaves, stunning blooms in spring.
Mahonia – Yellow winter flowers and architectural foliage.
Pieris japonica – Evergreen with red spring growth and white lily-of-the-valley flowers.
Foliage Stars
Heuchera – Come in shades of lime, plum, peach, and burgundy.
Hosta – Dramatic leaves in greens, blues, and variegations (watch for slugs).
Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ – Silvered foliage with blue forget-me-not flowers.
Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ – Golden Japanese grass, soft and light-catching.
Ferns – Polystichum, Dryopteris, and Athyrium bring rich green or silver tones.
Seasonal Colour Strategy
Spring: Pulmonaria, Brunnera, bulbs, Camellia
Summer: Astrantia, hardy Geraniums, Fuchsia
Autumn: Japanese anemone, Cyclamen, Hydrangea
Winter: Sarcococca, Mahonia, coloured stems/foliage
Can you please recommend a flowering climber with scent to climb up a pergola?
A flowering climber with scent is the perfect choice for a pergola, especially if it will be near a seating area or a walkway where you’ll pass through and catch the fragrance. Here are some of the best options, depending on your style and conditions:
Top Scented Climbers for Pergolas
Trachelospermum jasminoides (Star Jasmine)
Scent: Rich, jasmine-like fragrance in summer
Flowers: Small white star-shaped blooms
Evergreen: Yes, with glossy dark leaves that turn bronze in winter
Notes: Slow to start but worth it; needs a sunny, sheltered spot
Ideal for: London and milder parts of the UK
Lonicera periclymenum (Honeysuckle)
Scent: Sweet, classic country garden smell, especially at dusk
Flowers: Tubular blooms in creams, pinks, reds, or yellows
Evergreen: Some are semi-evergreen (e.g. ‘Halliana’), but many are deciduous
Varieties to try:’Graham Thomas’ (pale yellow, very fragrant) & ‘Serotina’ (late Dutch honeysuckle with purple and cream flowers)
Rosa ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’
Scent: Strong and lovely
Flowers: Large creamy-white, blousy blooms from early summer to autumn
Evergreen: No, but has a graceful, romantic habit
Notes: Vigorous, tolerant of partial shade, and relatively thornless
Ideal for: A pergola that needs romance and structure
Jasminum officinale (Common Jasmine)
Scent: Intoxicating, classic jasmine
Flowers: White starry blooms in mid to late summer
Evergreen: Deciduous, but fast-growing and full of flower
Notes: Needs a sunny, warm wall or sheltered pergola
Clematis ‘Sweet Summer Love’
Scent: Fruity, almost like red berries
Flowers: Masses of rich reddish-purple bloomsEvergreen: No
Notes: A newer variety with both flower power and scent; reliable and striking
We've had our philadelphus for three years and it's never flowered only sprouted more leaves, why?
A philadelphus that fails to flower after several years is often a sign that something in its growing conditions or pruning routine isn’t quite right. While philadelphus - also known as mock orange - is generally reliable and easygoing, it can be fussy about when and how it flowers. The most common cause is incorrect pruning.
Philadelphus blooms on the previous year’s wood, so if it’s pruned in autumn or early spring, the flower buds for the coming season are usually cut off. To encourage flowering, pruning should only be done immediately after it finishes flowering (or would have done), usually in early to mid-summer.
This allows the plant to put on new growth that will mature and set buds for the following year.
Another potential reason is lack of sunlight. Although philadelphus can tolerate some shade, it flowers best in full sun or very light shade. If it’s planted in a spot that’s too shady, you’ll likely get healthy green growth but very few, if any, flowers. It’s also worth considering how it was fed. Too much nitrogen-rich fertiliser can encourage lush leafy growth at the expense of blooms. If your philadelphus is near a lawn or has been given general-purpose feed regularly, it may be overfed and under-flowered. In this case, switching to a feed higher in potassium - like a tomato feed - can help rebalance things.
Finally, the plant may simply be settling in. Some philadelphus varieties take a while to mature before flowering begins. If it was moved or pruned hard when first planted, it might still be focusing on establishing its root system. Provided it’s in a sunny spot and left unpruned this year, you may see flowers next summer. If not, a gentle reshaping just after its usual flowering season could help trigger the right kind of growth.
What's the best way to support peonies, mine are so droopy. Is single stem supports best?
Peonies are famous for their blowsy, romantic blooms but those same show-stopping flowers can be their downfall, especially after rain.
The weight of the blooms, combined with the natural arching habit of the stems, means peonies often droop or collapse just when they look their best. Support is essential, particularly for herbaceous varieties with large, double flowers.
The best approach depends on the type of peony and the overall look you want. For most garden situations, a discreet, circular plant support placed early in the season - just as the shoots are emerging - is ideal. These classic peony rings allow the stems to grow up through the frame and provide all-round support without looking obvious. By the time the plant is in full leaf and bloom, the support is hidden, but the structure is there to hold everything upright.
Single stem supports can work, especially if you have just a few key stems that tend to flop, but they’re fiddlier and can end up looking a bit like a flower hospital. They don’t give the same natural, integrated effect as a circular support. If you do use single stakes, go for dark metal or green bamboo canes and use soft garden twine or flexi-tie to gently loop around the stem - not tight, just enough to keep them upright.
Another good option is using a grid-style support such as a mesh or criss-cross of canes placed low and allowed to “disappear” under the growth. These are brilliant for varieties with a spreading habit and can be homemade using twiggy hazel or birch, which also adds charm.
Whichever method you choose, the key is timing. Install supports before the plant needs them. Trying to wrangle a fully grown, drooping peony into a ring or cage is a thankless task. With the right support in place early, your peonies will stand tall and proud, even in wind and rain.
Best way to grow basil?
Basil thrives in warmth, sunlight, and well-drained soil, so the best way to grow it is in a sunny, sheltered spot - either in a pot or a raised bed - with at least six hours of sunlight a day. Sow seeds indoors in spring or buy young plants, and transplant only after all danger of frost has passed. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, pinch out the tips regularly to encourage bushiness, and harvest leaves often to keep the plant productive. Avoid letting it flower too early, as this can reduce leaf quality - just pinch off any flower buds as they appear.
Best thing to do to stop black fly on my artichokes please?
Blackfly on artichokes can be a real nuisance, clustering on the tender growth and flower buds. The key is to catch them early and act consistently. The best approach is a combination of gentle control and prevention:
Start by blasting them off with a strong jet of water from a hose - this often clears the worst of them without harming the plant or beneficial insects. Follow up with a homemade spray of diluted washing-up liquid (a few drops in a litre of water) or a soft insecticidal soap, applying it directly to the affected areas every few days. Avoid spraying in full sun, and rinse the plant after a while to avoid leaf damage.
Encourage natural predators like ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies by planting pollinator-friendly plants nearby - blackfly are part of their diet. Pinching out very badly infested shoot tips can also help break the cycle. And avoid overfeeding with nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which can encourage the kind of soft growth blackfly love.
What are good trees to offer privacy on chalk soil by the sea?
For chalky coastal soil, you’ll want trees that can cope with alkaline conditions, wind exposure, salt-laden air, and often limited moisture. The good news is, there are some brilliant, characterful options that tick all those boxes and offer privacy:
Top Trees for Coastal Privacy on Chalk Soil
Holm Oak (Quercus ilex)
Evergreen and wind-tolerant
Dense, dark foliage offers year-round privacy
Naturally coastal—used in exposed areas throughout the south of England
Can be clipped or left to grow into a tall screen
Elaeagnus × ebbingei
Evergreen with silvery, slightly leathery leaves
Scented flowers in autumn
Excellent for hedging or trained as pleached screens
Extremely tough and salt-tolerant
Tamarix (Tamarisk)
Feathery, elegant, deciduous
Pretty pink blossom in spring/summer
Brilliant for windbreaks near the sea
Not a full privacy screen in winter, but works well in mixed planting
Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn)
Native, wildlife-friendly, tough as nails
Deciduous but very dense and thorny—good natural barrier
White spring blossom, haws in autumn
Pinus sylvestris (Scots Pine)
Iconic, sculptural, and good in coastal winds
Not a formal screen, but offers height and filtered privacy
Beautiful when planted in groups along a boundary
Arbutus unedo (Strawberry Tree)
Evergreen, with red fruits and white bell-shaped flowers
Tolerates lime, drought, and salt air
Works well in smaller gardens, especially as a feature tree with screening qualities
Phillyrea latifolia
Less well-known but brilliant evergreen with glossy leaves
Mediterranean native—takes wind, chalk, drought, and pruning
Can be shaped into screens or used more freely
Why has my climbing rose not flowered for the 2nd year please?
If your climbing rose hasn’t flowered for a second year, it’s almost certainly trying to tell you something about its conditions or care. Roses are generous plants when they’re happy, but a few key things can hold them back. Here’s what might be going on:
The most common cause is over-pruning or incorrect pruning. Climbing roses flower on older wood, particularly stems that are at least a year old. If your rose has been pruned hard in winter or early spring, or if vigorous stems have been cut right back, you may be removing the very shoots that would have flowered. For climbers, it’s best to prune only lightly in winter - removing dead or damaged wood - and then shape and tie in laterals after flowering. Let long stems grow, and train them horizontally if possible - this slows sap flow and encourages more flowering shoots to develop along the cane.
Another possibility is too much shade. Roses need at least 5 to6 hours of full sun to bloom well. If your rose is facing the wrong way or being overshadowed by trees, fences or walls, it may grow plenty of green foliage but not have the energy or hormonal cues to produce buds. Similarly, excess nitrogen - from lawn fertiliser or overly rich feeds - can encourage lots of leafy growth at the expense of blooms. For flowering, roses prefer a balanced or rose-specific feed high in potassium.
Finally, your rose may still be establishing, especially if it was planted deep, moved recently, or is contending with poor soil or root competition. Some climbing roses take a couple of years to settle in and start performing - especially in heavier or drier soils.
Try a gentler approach this year: no harsh pruning, a potassium-rich feed (like tomato feed), good sun exposure, and consistent watering during dry spells. And above all give it time. If the rose is healthy and growing, flowering is almost always a matter of the right encouragement rather than a lost cause.
Why are my roses not doing well in pots? The pots are the right size and I followed the DA instructions.
Roses can be grown successfully in pots, but they’re demanding, and often struggle if even one condition isn’t quite right. The most common issues are inconsistent watering, poor drainage, or depleted compost. Even if your pots are the right size, roses hate drying out—and in pots, this can happen fast, especially in warm or windy weather. Equally, if drainage isn’t sharp enough, roots can sit in wet compost, leading to rot or poor performance.
Over time, nutrients in the compost get exhausted, so roses in pots need regular feeding - ideally with a rose-specific or high-potassium feed, applied every two weeks during the growing season. Make sure your pots have drainage holes, sit slightly raised off the ground, and are topped with fresh compost or mulch annually to keep the plants energised. With consistent moisture, good drainage, and feeding, your roses should bounce back.
How to know what soil you have.
To find out what type of soil you have, start with a simple hands-on test: take a small handful of moist (not wet) soil and rub it between your fingers. If it feels gritty and doesn’t hold its shape, it’s sandy; if it feels smooth and silky, it’s silty; and if it’s sticky, heavy, and clings together in a firm ball, it’s likely clay. Loam—the ideal mix -feels crumbly and balanced. You can also do a jar test: mix soil with water in a clear jar, shake it well, then let it settle - sand sinks fastest, silt forms the middle layer, and clay sits on top. For pH, use a home testing kit or inexpensive pH meter to find out whether your soil is acidic, neutral, or alkaline. Understanding your soil helps you choose the right plants and improve growing conditions with the right amendments.
Flowers for north facing front gardens.
A north-facing front garden can still be full of colour and charm with the right selection of shade-tolerant flowers. Choose plants that thrive in lower light and cooler conditions, such as hellebores, which bloom in late winter and early spring with elegant nodding flowers, and Japanese anemones, which offer a graceful splash of pink or white from late summer into autumn. Astilbes bring fluffy plumes in reds, whites and pinks, while foxgloves and aquilegias add vertical interest and cottage-garden beauty in spring and early summer. For ground cover, try brunnera, pulmonaria, or hardy geraniums like ‘Rozanne’. Mix in evergreen structure - such as ferns, hostas, or sarcococca - to keep it feeling alive year-round, and your shady front garden will feel welcoming, soft, and full of texture.
Best thing to still be growing in the greenhouse now.
In early June, your greenhouse can still be full of life, especially with warmth-loving crops that thrive under cover. Tomatoes, peppers, chillies, aubergines, and cucumbers should all be in full swing - growing vigorously and beginning to flower or set fruit. You can also still sow quick crops like basil, coriander, and salad leaves, which grow faster and more reliably in the steady heat of the greenhouse. If you have space, try melons or dwarf French beans, which love the extra warmth. Keep everything well-ventilated and regularly watered, and feed fruiting plants weekly with a high-potassium liquid fertiliser to encourage healthy crops through summer.
What to do with hydrangeas at the end of the summer?
At the end of summer, hydrangeas don’t need much fuss, but a little attention will set them up beautifully for next year. Resist the urge to cut them back straight away - leave the fading flowerheads in place, as they help protect the buds below from frost and add structure through autumn and winter. You can tidy up any damaged or sprawling stems, but save major pruning for late winter or early spring, depending on the variety.
It’s a good time to mulch around the base with compost or well-rotted manure to lock in moisture and improve the soil. If your hydrangeas are in pots, keep watering them until the weather cools properly, and move them to a sheltered spot if they’re exposed. With a gentle wind-down rather than a harsh cut-back, your hydrangeas will overwinter well and come back strong.
How to grow lavender successfully in Scotland?
To grow lavender successfully in Scotland, choose a hardy variety like Lavandula angustifolia (‘Hidcote’ or ‘Munstead’ are reliable) and plant it in the sunniest, most sheltered spot you can find - lavender needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight to thrive, even in cooler climates. It must have free-draining soil, so if your ground is heavy or damp, improve drainage with grit or plant into a raised bed or large terracotta pot with gritty compost. Avoid feeding it heavily - lavender does best in poor soils—and trim lightly after flowering to keep it compact and bushy, but never cut into old wood. With the right spot and a bit of airflow, lavender can grow well in Scotland, filling your garden with scent and pollinators even north of the border.
How to make a blank canvas garden look ‘mature' while other stuff takes time to grow?
To give a blank canvas garden a sense of maturity while slower-growing plants establish, focus on instant structure and layers. Start with a few well-placed large pots or containers filled with lush, architectural plants like box balls, phormiums, fatsias or olive trees to create immediate impact. Add tall perennials such as verbena bonariensis, fennel or globe thistle for height and movement, and weave in grasses and long-flowering plants like salvias or hardy geraniums for softness.
Use screens, trellises or climbers (like clematis or star jasmine) to break up boundaries and blur the edges. Laying generous mulch or gravel can help visually ‘settle’ a space, while choosing a few statement pieces - like a bench, urn, or water feature - anchors the garden and gives it a sense of purpose. It’s all about faking age through texture, height, and focal points while the bones of the garden quietly take root.
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